In the fashion world where trends come and go, one designer remains a symbol of timeless elegance: Rohit Bal. The well-known designer passed away on November 1, 2024, after being admitted to the hospital for a protracted cardiac condition. Bal, a native of Kashmir, was well known for his elaborate details, fine craftsmanship, and lavish patterns. He drew influence from his Kashmiri cultural heritage and used vivid colours, patterns, and narratives in his well-known pieces that fused modernity, comfort, and cultural symbols. The signature designs of Rohit Bal are very much identifiable from their focus on details and richness. Fondly called “Gudda”, Bal had his design style characterised by detailed embroidery, rich tress works and the use of rich fabrics like velvet and silk suits. Time Magazine said that Bal India is India’s “Master of fabric and fantasy”. He mastered the art of blending Indian culture, mythology & folklore to tell a story through his designs. This commitment pushed him to use traditional fabrics such as the muslin and the khaadi often to keep the Indian clothing ideals alive coupled with his vision of making fashion the common man’s language. His collection in collaboration with Swarovski under the title “Husn-e-Taairaat” meaning the beauty of a bird had gold threadwork, and an array of rich fabrics, emphasising the strength and resilience found in nature and heritage. “It is my tribute to the incredible artisans and craftsmen of my country. It is a tribute to the beauty of wildlife, birds and flowers that found expression in the Indian decorative arts and flow through my collection today.”, Bal said in 2016. At the centre of his vision was a linkage to the cultural roots of his homeland, Kashmir. Bal, who was born in Srinagar, often referred to Kashmir for inspiration and used to take ideas for his designs from the valley. Peacocks, chinar leaves and lotus were the other elementary legacy styles prominently featured in his creations. “Gulbagh”, one of his most famous works, was showcased in 2014 with the backdrop of Qutub Minar and was a homage to his roots. Taking his cues from Kashmir's Mughal gardens the designer used lavish flowers and rich textiles to symbolise Kashmir's regal heritage. Bal frequently incorporated peacocks and lotus in his designs. He found the simplicity of the lotus and the flamboyance of the peacock, two opposing forms, to be very attractive. “Whatever I am today, whoever I am, it’s all Kashmir”, Bal once said. He had left Kashmir when he was a kid but kept revisiting the valley and fondly talked about the beauty and the lush landscapes of Kashmir. He often used traditional embroidery techniques of Kashida and Zari to celebrate his homeland through his work. This art of embroidery was presented in his collection “Guldasta” which is a homage to the region’s rich artistic heritage. After being ill for almost a year, around three weeks ago on 13 October 2024, the ace designer made his comeback with the collection, “Kaaynaat: A Bloom in the Universe”. He looked visibly weak and unwell on the runway of the collection showcased on the last day of FDCI-hosted Lakme Fashion Week in Delhi. With the rose as a centrepiece and maximalist representation of hand-painted motifs from nature, Kaaynaat too was an inspiration from Kashmir. The collection was called a poetic ode to nature, beauty, and the art of transformation. He also found inspiration in the monuments and Mughal architecture of Delhi. He keenly observed what common people wore and often said that fashion is still a luxury in India. Bal strongly believed that fashion was more than just clothes, it was about telling stories. He was very fascinated by the artisans of the Czech Republic but unlike other designers, he did not seek heavy influence from the European cities. He understood the importance of handwork and appreciated the traditional artwork of India. Bal, a pioneer in the Indian fashion business and one of the founding members of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), was a prominent promoter of the domestic market. Because of his humility, he was adored and respected by many, and he served as a role model, teacher, and inspiration to many others. For many years, he worked with major global brands, and international celebrities like Naomi Campbell, Uma Thurman, and Cindy Crawford wore his pieces. In 2020, Ivanka Trump, a former First Daughter and international celebrity, wore his "Guldasta" collection to a state dinner at Rashtrapati Bhavan. Bal's contributions to the fashion sector are significant. Being a visionary designer he not only attempted to restore and promote Indian culture to the finest level but also tried to take it on the international platform through his beautiful creations which are a combination of tradition and innovation. As the fashion world continues to evolve, Rohit Bal remains a shining example of how heritage and modernity can coexist beautifully.
Source- The Applause Designs
06 Dec 2024
Ananya Ganotra
