Legend has it that within the walls of the mansions of Karaikudi lie hidden treasures, carefully concealed by the wealthy Chettiars to protect their fortunes from invaders. Rumours of ghostly apparitions drifting through the corridors only add to the intrigue as residents and visitors share stories of eerie encounters and unexplained phenomena. But it's not just the supernatural that lurks within the walls of these opulent homes. Behind the façade of wealth and splendour lies a darker history of family feuds and betrayals. Sibling rivalries, clandestine affairs, and secret alliances are whispered in hushed tones, their echoes reverberating through the halls. Yet amidst the tales of curses and hexes, there is also a sense of awe and wonder at the architectural marvels that testify to the craftsmanship and ingenuity of the Chettiar builders. Each mansion tells its own story through its unique blend of indigenous and colonial styles, its hidden symbols and motifs hinting at mysteries yet to be unravelled. Initially a part of the Pandiyan Dynastry and later under the rule of various dynasties such as the Cholas, Cheras and Pallavas, Karaikudi is tied to the Nattukottai Chettiar community. The Chettiars were renowned for their business astuteness, engaging in trade and banking across Southeast Asia. They established a network of businesses, bringing wealth and prosperity to Karaikudi and the surrounding areas. The profuse mansions of Chettinad stand as a testament to the region's prosperous past and architectural prowess. At first, these houses might seem compact from the outside; however, hidden behind the exterior walls are spacious inner courtyards adorned with luxurious Burmese teak furnishings and majestic Italian marble columns. Beneath your feet lie the Athangudi tiles, whispering tales of a past long gone. The spaces above the window frames are adorned with miniature paintings of everything ranging from different flowers and patterns to even paintings of gods and goddesses. Each mansion is a work of art, reflecting a unique blend of indigenous and colonial influences. These architectural marvels offer a glimpse into Chettinad's illustrious history and cultural heritage. The Atthangudi Palace in Karaikudi stands tall to attest to the region's rich cultural heritage. This magnificent palace is a sight and portal to the past, beckoning visitors to step back in time and experience the grandeur of a bygone era. A personal visit to Karaikudi exposed me to these architectural marvels. I vividly remember a younger version of me staring up at the tall ceiling, the geometric tile pattern below and the timeless elegance of the window and its paintings. The Athangudi tiles felt so perfect yet simple at the same time. Witnessing the tile-making process, one will realise why they are popular and how sustainable they are, making them stand out. First, the glass base is placed on a foundation, followed by the outer frame and a brass pattern mould. Colours are poured into the design grill according to the desired pattern, and after laying the colour layer, a dry mixture of sand and cement is spread on top, and then the mould is filled with wet mortar. The tile is left to dry, soaked in water, and dried again before removing the glass and sanding the edges. This process makes these tiles economically affordable, sustainable, and durable, representing a blend of tradition and modernity without the need for firing or electricity during manufacturing. The spiritual wealth of Karaikudi is not to be underestimated either. With each clan having their respective temples built, only nine clan temples are considered the most auspicious and are also known as the 'Nine Temples of Chettiars'. The Karpaka Vinayakar Temple, popularly known as the Pillayarpatti Temple, dedicated to Lord Ganesha, is a revered temple 12 km from Karaikudi. It is well-known for its magnificent rock-cut images of Ganesha, Siva linga, and other splendid carvings. The temple's history dates back to the 7th century, with some parts possibly even older. The temple has a colourful gopuram, intricately designed mandapams, and shrines that follow Agamic texts and Shilpa Sastras, still attracting devotees, particularly women during annual festivals and chariot processions like Vinayaka Chaturthi and Brahmothsavam in Vaikasi month. During my stay at the Bangla and Heritage Resort, I took a cooking class and watched the chefs expertly prepare local Chettinad dishes, and it became evident why this cuisine is so beloved. What sets Chettinad cuisine apart is its masterful use of freshly ground masalas, incorporating a blend of spices like fenugreek, star anise, and peppercorns. Combined with onions, tomatoes, coconut, and aromatic herbs, these masalas transform regional dishes into gastronomic delights. Chettinad cuisine is particularly renowned for its non-vegetarian offerings, including Nattukozhi Kozhambu (country chicken), Aatukari Kozhambu (lamb), and Karaikudi Eral (prawn) masala. These dishes are commonly enjoyed alongside staples like idli, dosa, parotta, and appam, enhancing their flavours and elevating the dining experience.
Photo Credits: A Chettinad House in Karaikudi /Poornima Narayan
30 Aug 2024
Sneha
