SUSTAINABILITY AND FASHION: IS THRIFTING BENEFITTING US ALL?

From Sarojini in Delhi to Chor Bazaar in Mumbai, there are a growing number of flea markets in India, and in between is a new blooming trend of up and coming online thrift stores almost creating a digital flea market of sorts.

Thrifting as a concept isn’t new to Indian consumers and while some Indians see it as just a relatively costly form of hand me downs, there’s a majority that believes it to be a pocket friendly shopper’s stop. Flea markets in facthave been the main shopping market for many low to middle income groups in India and the term ‘slow fashion’ is rather a new introduction to many. The outlook on slow fashion is that it is eco-friendly, one of a kind, and incredibly affordable— all of which are true and also the USPs of thrift shopping. This perspective on thrifting is part testimonial to the fact that Indian fashion consumers: both lower-middle income groups and higher class are becoming aware of the consequences of fast fashion, and are increasingly being open to appreciating thrift and its practicality. But the catch here is that it’s also a way for the affluent class to capitalize on. Haulers are on the rise!

Online thrift shops are a lucrative business model that’s an absolute banger amongst the youth across the country—for both the consumers and sellers alike. It’s a surprise seeing many youngsters who earlier fretted over the thought of buying from a flea market to now take pride in donning secondhand fashion, while some have even gone to launch their own stores. Instagram in particular witnessed a rise in thrift shops with many of them delivering across the country even during the lockdown phase of the pandemic, which furthered its buzz and enhanced sales drastically.

However, people from affluent classes tend to buy from these thrift stores online and off for the purpose of reselling or personal consumption, rebranding and repositioning as preloved for much higher prices. A greater turnover for these online stores has led to the gentrification of thrifting. Putting clothing articles to auction, reselling last season’s clothing articles from a fast fashion brand is what more affluent consumers have started to practice under the guise of thrifting, that takes away the opportunity for the low income consumers and sellers both online and offline to earn their share. It’s perfectly alright to introduce some preloved clothes in one’s closet and expand it, but making a profit out of it is counterintuitive to the model of slow fashion and sustainability as a whole. That’s exactly where the challenge lies for the fashion industry, to reinvent a system that works in congruence with fashion and sustainability. Otherwise, thrift is just in fashion; just another trend to don.

 

10 Jan 2022
Nandita Singh Rattan