A DAY IN THE CITY OF RUINS

Five years ago, keeping aside all the usual family clashes and hundred tantrums, we as a family of 5 decided to go on a historical tour of Karnataka by car. One car, five people, a worn out state tourism map, and 700 kilometers of traveling through time - that’s when we reached Hampi.

We had one day in our hand to cover this city and planned to make the most of it. We asked Mr. Ravi, a Karnataka state tourism guide to accompany us throughout the day. Start- ing from the musically magical Vijaya Vittala temple till the only functioning temple in the city - the Virupaksha.

I could go on for pages about the historical significance of each monument but nothing can beat hearing musical sounds from pillars built as long as 6 centuries ago! You can still find the two pillars which were cut by Britishers to check the science behind them. The most popular stone chariot stands tall in the courtyard of this temple and is absolutely marvelous to look at. Walking a little further, my sister and I couldn’t stop talking about the 15th century King’s balance.

Yes, the same balance we’ve watched in movies where the king is weighed against the royal jewels.

Situated right in the middle of the Royal Centre is the stun- ning Hazara Ram Temple, the story of Ramayana carefully carved in chronological order all along its walls. We couldn’t take our eyes off how perfect each carving was.

Walking a little further along the local bustling bazaars of Hampi, we stopped by the monolithic Ganesha and Bull - massive statues made out of a single stone! It was my first time looking at a monolithic structure and I could not stop wondering how they would have been made over 400 years ago. Before we went on to see the Queen’s quarters, we stop ped by a small restaurant called the Mango Tree. The restaurant was typically designed like a hut with a quaint dhaba-like set-up inside. My father had to stop me from ogling at the second serving of thaali that we ordered.

Rich authentic South Indian food never goes amiss!

Going around the Zenana Enclosure and queen’s bath was fun. I do not recall anything that the guide had mentioned because I was too busy pretending to be a queen. If only I could go back in time and watch how everyone lived in the royal enclosure! The Royal Elephant stables close by left me beyond shocked at how royal they looked. It was already 4 by the time we had ticked off almost all significant temples and all I wanted to do was eat that thaali again. Unfortunately, my grandmother had come with the sole purpose of visiting the monkey temple - Anjani Parvat.

A little far from Hampi, and 600 steps on a hill, lies this temple famously known as the birthplace of Lord Hanuman. The climb was easy but the monkeys did not fail to make me cry, the sunset from the hill was definitely worth the climb! Before we could go back to our hotel in Hospet, we visited the grand Virupaksha temple of Hampi. I was 15 back then who had just learned the word atheist but I will never forget how calm that temple made me feel. Despite the sound of puja and people, I remember taking in every moment right from Laxmi - the elephant to me losing my chappals.

Temples, shrines, a stepped bath, boulders and the royal Tungabhadra River. You just have to make- believe that you are a time traveler lost in their voyage at this beautiful late-medieval era Indian city.

20 Apr 2023
Paridhi Maheshwari